Getting Leh'd! |
Author : Yudhishthir Sjb Rana | on 31st May 2009
The page is blank with nothing but the cursor blinking incessantly like a No Vacancy sign on the motels they show in Hollywood movies. I really have no words to describe my Leh adventure. Webster would run short of adjectives to define a place that blew me away with its warm people and its cold, raw natural beauty. This was Leh, a testosterone pumped Wild Mountain not to be confused with the wimpy hill stations of Mussoorie or Shimla. This was an adventure called Ladakh.Juleh. The Ladakhi greeting that is more often than not accompanied by a smile that warms you up despite the cold chilly May wind. The Ladakhi people are warm; peace loving and simple - the stuff God intended man to be. I was welcomed by this very heartening Juleh and a khadak - a traditional Buddhist Silk scarf that is given to people as sign of respect.
The preparations for the trip had begun 5 days before I boarded the 55 minute jet Airways flight that flew me in directly to Leh. Forewarned about the dangers of Altitude Sickness, a real killer at 18,000 ft, I was told to take DIAMOX (I can't emphasise the importance of this li'l wonder drug) to better acclimatise to the conditions. A good pair of sunglasses (to protect against snow blindness) and a sunscreen with minimum SPF 35 (remember Leh is the only place you can get sun burnt AND frost bite) are a must as well. Needless to say my huge suitcase was filled with woollies!
Leh has something to offer for everyone.
For the spiritually inclined, the monasteries of Thiksey, Hemios, Spitup, and Lamayuru provide perfect refuge. Most monasteries also have small guest houses where visitors may stay and participate in Buddhist rituals with the resident monks. These monasteries offer great insight into the culture of Leh with their museums holding great treasures of tourist interest. Religion plays an important part in Leh's culture and it is advisable to listen carefully to your guide so as to not disrespect any religious sentiments.
For the adventurous kinds, Leh offers a plethora of activities. From battling the white water rapids on the mighty Indus to treks that I was too scared to even enquire about, Leh is an adrenaline junkies' ultimate fantasy! Take a mountain bike and ride the mountain ranges, camping at the most scenic spots and you're sure to have a trip to remember! Even driving to Khardungla, the world's highest motorable road at 18k feet above sea level is an adventure waiting to happen.
For the foodie, Leh's cuisine is appetising though some may feel that it is a little bland. The mok mok (a stuffed steamed meat dumpling) is absolutely orgasmic. The Apricot jam a local delicacy is a yummy breakfast to have. There are also many small restaurants in the Leh market that serve up great international cuisine (try the Wood fire oven Pizzas at World Cafe and the walnut cake at Desert Rain) However hardcore non-vegetarians would not find meat in the guest houses at Alchi, Nubra or Pangong because it is bloody tough to transport any form of animal protein to these places.
However, Leh reserves its best for the nature lovers. Every turn on the treacherously high passes yields a sight that literally takes your breath away. Sandwiched between the Karakoram and the Himalayan mountain ranges, Leh provides the shutterbug with ample photo ops. The Moon Land near the Lamayuru monastery looks alien and one can't help but hop around pretending to be Neil Armstrong! Leh is probably the only place in the world where in one frame you could take a picture of snow capped mountains, a desert and a water body! Pangong lake is a magnificent sight to see and few are brave enough to take a dip in its bone chilling water. I would suggest staying the night in a tent at Pangong and catching the sunrise. The desert at Nubra valley is home to the famous Double Humped Camel and riding the sand dunes on one is a memorable, though back-breaking experience.
The best time to visit Leh is between May and July. Being a highly sensitive area (considering it is close to Pakistani and Chinese borders) permits are required for visiting certain areas do ask your tour operator about the same. A good relaxed rather luxurious trip would cost around 30K, however cheaper options are available if one does not mind slumming it out a bit. There are guest houses for Rs. 600 a night that provide good decent rooms and meals.
My trip to Leh has opened my eyes to many things. When at 18000 feet, children go to a government school and are being educated well, I feel proud to be Indian. When in a remote Ladakhi village I can flip out my BSNL phone and call my grandmum; I know this country is going places. When I see our well equipped army protecting our borders even at freezing temperatures; I feel a sense of gratitude for these brave men.
Yes. Leh is beautiful. There are no questions about it. Would I do Leh again? Hell yeh!
(aside: All photos are of my trip.)
2 Comments