Gokarna - SUN, SAND AND LORD SHIVA |
A town of contrasts, a temple of solace, and a hippy paradise are just some of the phrases one would use to describe a place like this. It is amazing how one seeks to find serenity and untouched beauty like this in foreign lands, only to find it just an overnight bus ride away. The place in question is Gokarna.
Coming from Bangalore, it is just a 12 hour bus ride. Safe and economical the sleeper bus journey was unexpectedly comfortable except for a few hours in the night when the driver lives his fantasy of riding a Ducati and drives maniacally almost throwing you off your cosy sleeper. But thankfully for of the protective guards you manage to stay put just as you hold on to your dear life. The Ducati ride is finally over and for the heavy sleepers whom even a landslide couldn’t wake up, the next day is a great morning.
Literally translating into ‘Cow’s ear’, Gokarna is a town of contrasts. On one hand you have God fearing devout worshippers of lord Shiva, and on the other hand hippies having their fair share of the sun. I would like to believe that I could carry off both the images with equal panache but quite expectedly I tilt towards the latter.
Gokarna is famous for 5 of its beaches – Om, Kudle, Paradise, Full moon and Half moon. All of them are at a distance of 20 minutes from each other if you choose to walk; however you always have the option of auto rickshaws. It should be pointed out that though the distances are not much the roads are very rough so expect a bumpy ride. And be sure to bargain since the autos drivers are known for overcharging. The minimum rate for going from one beach to another is Rs.80. There are also boats that do the same but this works out to be more expensive with a minimum spend of Rs.150 per person.
Accommodation is not a problem with huts on the beach every step of the way. You have varied options in beach huts as well. Whether you are looking to rough it out in a thatched hut on the beach with one bed in the centre and a communal bathroom, or if you are looking to go completely extravagant in a resort and spa, there is a place for you.
And if you like something that meets midway between these two extremes then you also have quaint cottages with a clean bed and attached bathroom. Fitting the bill to a tee is the ‘SPANISH PLACE’ which is on Kudle beach. Though Om beach is the most famous of the beaches, Kudle beach is cleaner and the liveliest of the lot. The cottages amidst trees are clean, with attached bathroom and beds armed with mosquito nets, plus being traveller friendly, it is a steal at Rs.400 a night.
Now coming to the cuisine, the local fare is largely vegetarian, fresh, simple, wholesome and tasty. A sure shot way of sampling the best of the region’s cuisine is to go where the locals frequent. And being in the south you can be sure of not leaving without trying the sumptuous ‘all you can eat’ thali’s. If you are of the belief that quantity matters, much like me then dig in to all the curry rice you can eat, because this is it.
The beach shacks do what they do best - international cuisine. Standing true to the food generally served in shacks, the fare included Israeli, Lebanese, Italian, Indian and it goes without saying limitless seafood.
Browsing through a menu and narrowing down on one dish is always the toughest thing for one to do especially when everything looks so utterly divine and lip smacking. It’s like a 5 year old being locked in a candy store and expecting the poor hungry child to choose one. That’s just evil and sadistic, quite similar to the situation I am faced with, whenever a menu is thrown at me and I am forcefully made to decide. It’s a pity we don’t have bottomless pits to devour the butter garlic prawns, crispy calamari, the succulent chicken satay or the mash potatoes and the grilled vegetables.
The one shack which flawlessly catered to my need for seafood, with cheerful and efficient service was the “Munchies” restaurant. Tiger prawns grilled to perfection, assorted sea food platters, a thin crust pizza from a wood fired oven, hummus and pita bread, excellent salads, a traditional Israeli breakfast. All this, from an ever smiling server who never shied away from interacting with the guests and with no dish costing more than Rs.100 with a view to kill for, what more can one ask for. And if you happen to be one of those people whose travel stories revolve around food then I assure you that your gastronomical tales will never end.
The beaches, the shacks and all the seafood you can eat, naturally reminded me of what Goa probably must’ve been 20 years ago. The crowds were fewer; the ground was not yet touched by cement, the sand whiter and with fewer thrift shops, it was indeed a hippy paradise.
Gokarna is not about beach parties throbbing with psychedelic beats. Instead it’s about killing hours on the beach strumming a guitar, spending countless hours swimming, licking your fingers after digging into some sumptuous tiger prawns with beer and ending the day with a bonfire on the beach with some friendly travellers.
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